Welcome to my Blog!

Welcome to my Blog devoted to the restoration of my 1972 Datsun 240z. I purchased it in 2013 and have been actively working on my driving-restoration, so I can enjoy the car rather than having it in pieces for years. Please enjoy the write-ups below, as well as the how-to's. Feel free to reach out to me directly if you have any comments or questions. Thanks. - Dave

22 October 2013

Brake Booster

While out driving a couple weeks ago I noticed when I pressed the brake pedal that a loud "hissing" sound began as well as the engine RPM changing quite a bit.  After further diagnosis, it appeared that I had a major vacuum leak coming from the brake booster.  Most likely the 41+ year old rubber diaphragm just deteriorated.  Apparently in 1972 the brake booster changed mid-year.  Jan-Aug 1972 used a 1971 brake booster and the Sept - Dec 1972 (and all the way upto 1978) used the later brake booster.  The holes in the firewall are different and the older (which I have) booster is a 6" smaller diameter.

Original brake booster removed:
 

I was able to slide the brake booster out without having to disassemble the master cylinder


Remanufactured Cardone brake booster (compliments of Amazon.com).  I did need to change the engagement pin on the booster and I'm still in the process of adjusting it to ensure the brakes engage at the proper pedal pressure.  There are stories of the reaction disk (a small rubber spacer in the booster) slippping out, but I did confirm that mine is securely in its place.

While I had the accessibility, I swapped out the steering coupler for the rack & pinion steering.  The old hunk of rubber had certainly seen better days & the new one dramatically  improves the handling & responsiveness of the car.

Other useful bits I've found along my travels...



15 August 2013

5spd transmission

Last weekend I acquired a 1977 5 speed transmission for a guy who was parting out the engine/drivetrain of his 280z.  Supposedly it drove great without noise and only has 80k miles on it.  I picked it up for $100 which I think was quite a great deal.  I've been seeing these go for $250-$300, and this one included an extra flywheel, clutch, and engine splash guard.

The transmission is a FS5W71B model, Serial # 7322759 meaning
  •  7=1977
  •  3=March
  •  22579 = Sequential number of this transmission being produced (#22,579 for the month of March 1977)
This is an early "wide ratio" transmission which should improve the drive ability of the car, especially at highway speeds with the 0.864 overdrive gear.  Below are the drive ratios for the different transmissions available for the S30.  I started with a 1972 240z 4speed and will be installing a 1977 280z 5speed.


Before Pictures





 

First order of business was to powerwash and degrease the transmission.    I did cover up the output shaft with a plastic bag as well as the speedo gear to prevent water from entering the transmission.  I do plan on installing the transmission in the car prior to rebuilding it.  This will allow me the ability to see where its actually leaking from as well as if any gears or forks make funny noises.

After Degreasing & Powerwashing Pictures
 

Next comes jacking up the car and removing the old 4 speed transmission and installing this new 5 speed unit.

 Transmission pulled out through the rear and remaining clutch and flywheel (note that the engine must be supported when pulling the transmission!




All of the shuttering I noticed when engaging the clutch was due to two springs being broken on the friction disk.










240z & 280z pressure plates and release (throw out) bearing collars are different sizes.

 

The car is now back together & shifts much better than expected.  The clutch does engage very high up in the pedal stroke, which is different than before but it may be due to the different type of clutch pressure plates.

Here are some great reference pictures from the InterWeb...




 



Another great reference site is Blue's Tech Tips: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/transmissionbreakdown/index.html

The Speedo gear in the transmission must match the differential, so I'm going to need to pull the one out of my 4speed transmission and insert it into the new 5 speed to keep the speedometer accurate...
YELLOW is the 16 tooth for the 3.36
BLACK i
s the 17 tooth for the 3.54
BLUE is the 18 tooth for the 3.70
WHITE is the 19 tooth for the 3.90
RED is the 20 tooth for the 4.11
PURPLE is the 21 tooth for the 4.38

04 August 2013

Seatbelt upgrade



After too many passengers getting confused with the stock 3-point seatbelt harness (fixed length shoulder strap and all), I decided to upgrade to a set of Wesco seatbelts.  I believe they are either the same or very similar to the set that is available from Motorsports.  Wesco has a nice online system that allows the user to identify exactly which seatbelt combination to select based on the vehicle.

The setup I selected ended up being $173 out the door with shipping and tax.  See http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/

Here are some pictures of the before & after

Stock seatbelt system
Stock seatbelt on top, Wesco on the bottom


Wesco Seatblet connections (stock mounts)
Wesco receiver mount, stock location
Wesco shoulder harness, using the optional L-Bracket, stock mounting location

03 July 2013

240z How-To Links

Below are several of the larger projects that I've completed on my car which I documented as much as possible to allow others to learn from my restoration.  The rest of the blog entries track the progress of my restoration.



Alternator Upgrade

So while digging through my box of parts that the previous owner provided me, I ran across a brand new alternator, which ended up being a 280ZX internally regulated 60amp model.  After upgrading to the Pertronix electronic ignition last year, I began to hear that the 240z's voltage regulator and 40amp alternator might not be powerful enough, so I investigated upgrading. All it cost me was the price of a diode ($2 @ Radioshack) as I had all of the other parts already.

I was able to find a good article at ZHOME.COM (http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html) but it lacked the detail and pictures that I needed.

      

After removing the voltage regulator I found out why its recommended to go with an internally regulated alternator -- look at how the backing plate has melted!

In order to eliminate the external voltage regulator I needed to create a jumper, including a diode to allow the car to turn off when the key is removed.  Here is the best diagram I was able to find on the internet:

I ended up using a spare voltage regulator connector (and kept the somewhat working voltage regulator in one piece in case I ever needed to switch back).  This connector then plugs in just like the voltage regulator would.





 

 Once installed with the waterproof boot that I had laying around (which fit perfectly), I was able to tuck the jumper harness under the wires and it looks like its always been there.


Now that I've been driving on the new alternator without the external voltage regulator I can honestly say the car is running better than it probably did when it was new.  This was a great upgrade and should be done by anyone having ignition or performance issues (I thought it was my carburetors, but all along it was electrical issues).






24 June 2013

Carb Float Levels & Sightglass

Background
Thanks to gravity and atmospheric pressure, water (and other fluids including gas) seeks its own level.  What this means is if you take a tube and hold it in a “U” shape and fill it partially with water, no matter how high you hold one end of the tube, the water will be the same height on both sides.  This is the basic function of the sightglass.  The level of gas shown in the sightglass is the same height as the fuel in the float bowl.

Don't forget to reference the FSM (Factory Service Manual) which can be found at:
 http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Setup Procedures
1. Disconnect the coil plug going to your distributor and put the car in neutral, parking brake on, and chock the wheels.  This will allow for cranking of the engine (powering the fuel pump) without starting the engine and without the car moving.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly, including the air horns (leaving just the carburetors showing)
3. Using a caliper or accurate ruler, measure down 19 mm from the lip of the float bowl top and draw a horizontal line.  You can use a pencil which is erasable, a permanent marker, or even a piece of blue painter’s tape depending on the quality/condition of your carburetor.  Although the Factory Service Manual (FSM) states it should be 23mm, that is from the roof of the inside of the float bowl lid. 3mm is subtracted from this FSM figure to allow for easy measuring on the outside of the float bowl.  This newly drawn line is what the fuel level “should be”.  

4. Place a dish or tray or disposable rag underneath the carburetor bowl

5. Disconnect the fuel hose coming out of the fuel bowl.  Gasoline (~4oz) will drip out.  Dispose of the rags and empty the tray/dish


6. Connect the Sightglass to the bottom of the float bowl and tighten the hose clamp.  Do not over tighten as you will crush the nipple!


7. Bend the sightglass up and tuck it behind the carburetor flange/body
8. Adjust the sightglass up & down to line the mark on the sightglass with the line on your float bowl
9. Repeat steps 1-8 above for the other carburetor (unless you’re just measuring one at a time)


Usage/Measurement Procedures
1. Once the sightglass is setup as per the instructions above, activate your fuel pump
          - For mechanical fuel pumps (stock 240z), you must crank the engine
          - For those who have upgraded to electric fuel pumps, either active a hot-wire
            switch or crank the engine
2. Confirm nothing is leaking, if it is, retighten the hose clamp on the sightglass
3. Continue to activate the fuel pump until the fuel level in the sightglass no longer rises;
        this is the current gross-mixture fuel level setting for the float bowl.
         - Fuel above the 22mm line indicates a rich gross-setting
         - Fuel below the 22mm line indicates a lean gross-setting
4. Once the current setting is identified and if not to your desire, you must remove the float bowl lids (4 screws)
         - 3 screw SU’s require the float bowl lid to be rotated before they’ll lift off.
         - You may need to replace the float bowl gasket if its old or you tear it while removing the float bowl lid
5. Once removed, adjust the tang on the float itself to allow for more or less fuel in the float bowls.  Additional detail can be found in Appendix A (FSM)
6. Reassemble the float bowl lid and repeat steps 1-5 above and then move onto the next carburetor.
        - If the fuel level was too “high” (rich) during the prior test, you will need to empty some fuel
           from the sightglass/float bowl.  The simplest way is to angle the sightglass down & let a
           little bit of gas drip out into your dish/tray.
       - I’ve found that by leaving the float bowl gasket out while fine tuning the float bowl
          tang reduces the chance of damaging the gasket and/or wasting a lot of new ones.
          Just remember to reinstall the gasket prior to full usage of the car.
7. Once completed, ensure tray/dish, rags, etc. are properly cleaned up.
8. Reattach the coil wire and proceed to fine tune the carburetors as per the factory manual.

 

I just saw this device which someone created on classiczcars.com.  Very ingenious device!  Basically its a 12  oz water bottle which has been cut with a line drawn parallel to the top and then rest the float bowl lid on top.  This way you can see the fuel level and modify the float tang without having to mess with the gasket and  pulling it out & back in.




24 April 2013

Radiator Upgrade

The next project I just completed was to install an aluminum radiator in the 240z.  After looking at the copper unit that was installed by the prior owner, it was a 280z 3-row radiator.  Unfortunately the lower hose pipe was straight rather than crooked up like the 240z requires, so I needed to install a matching unit.  I chose an American Eagle 2-row aluminum radiator with a lifetime warranty.  The install was fairly straight forward and the hoses line up now, and the bottom of the radiator does not hang below the front cross member as the prior one did.