Welcome to my Blog!

Welcome to my Blog devoted to the restoration of my 1972 Datsun 240z. I purchased it in 2013 and have been actively working on my driving-restoration, so I can enjoy the car rather than having it in pieces for years. Please enjoy the write-ups below, as well as the how-to's. Feel free to reach out to me directly if you have any comments or questions. Thanks. - Dave

14 January 2013

Electric Fuel Pump Installation

In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump.  By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier.

Parts List
  • Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38)
  • Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15)
  • Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25)
  • Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5)
  • Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2)
  • 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5)
  • inertia switch (optional)
  • Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors
  • Fuel Hose





My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch.  As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch.














Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay.  In the diagram below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box.
Wiring Diagram, designed and drawn by me

The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle).  The BLK/WHT wire  is live with the ignition switch.  The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory).
There are two unused harnesses.  Left is the Fuel Pump, right  is the Fog Lights

New electric fuel pump.  I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.


Relay with the initial wiring
Relay once the wires were bundled nicely


Oil pressure sender initial wiring
Oil pressure sender wires bundled nicely


Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate



06 January 2013

Coolant recovery tank

Today I installed a universal coolant recovery tank since the 240z didn't have one from the factory. Now that I've replaced the gaskets, the overflow tube on the radiator has been spitting coolant onto the ground.

The only available spot for the large universal tank was in front of the radiator.


27 December 2012

Thermostat housing gasket

I think I found the last coolant leak on the engine. The thermostat housing always hisses when the car is turned off. I did unfortunately break a bolt off in the cylinder head!! Luckily I was able to get it out without drilling.

New gasket installed! No more hissing when I turn the car off & no more coolant leaks!

Housing and the (lack of) original gasket


Yes, I broke that bolt off in the head


Glad I had a couple spare bolts laying around

NOS Fuel Pump

So I ran across a NOS electric fuel pump which after investigation appears to be from a Datsun 720 pickup truck.  Its never been used and I'm hoping to sell it to someone with a 720 who can use it for a restore.  Unit number 379-00160, Transistor Fuel Pump is listed on the label.

I was able to power up the pump and it works great.  Also appears that this was used for the '73 240z's that experienced the vapor lock conditions.  After opening the filter lid (right side of picture), I can verify this pump has never been installed!  Another NOS part that I can sell to allow me to purchase some more parts for my restoration.


12 December 2012

Vacuum leaks and exhaust pops resolved

I decided to pull off the air pump and associated devices which no longer function due to their age and the fact that we no longer have leaded gasoline.  The popping out of the exhaust has ceased and I am no longer introducing un-metered air into the mixture.  A couple more quick fine tuning and the car will be running perfect!




10 December 2012

Back up & running

The carbs have been re-installed into the car and it fired right up.  I've done the gross tuning and now I just need to fine tune the mixture.

02 December 2012

New thermostat

While the coolant was drained, I decided to install a new thermostat. Look at the old one I pulled out! I can't imagine what the rest of the cooling system looks like... That is for another day though.

25 November 2012

Carb #1 rebuild

I started to pull carb #1 apart today to clean it and then rebuild it. 40 years of grease & gunk was quite a mess to clean up! I do plan on polishing the dome before I put it back together with the ZT performance rebuild kit.  The rebuild on the first carb went very well, these SU's are fairly simple to work on.



Initial disassembly


Dome, spring, piston, and N57 needle


Float and bowl top


Carb body and butterfly


Further disassembly


One rebuilt and cleaned, one to go

24 November 2012

Carbs off the engine!

Just pulled off the carbs today getting ready to rebuild them

Carbs off the car, ready for rebuilding


Intake manafolds

16 November 2012

Vacuum gauge installed


Just received my vacuum gauge from Northern Tools, its a Valley Instrument Grade B Back Mount 2in Dry Gauge-Vacuum #1220DSBVAC, 1/4" NPT male connection.  I installed it on the balance tube at an open port just in front of the brake booster vacuum hose.  Seems to fit perfectly and work as expected.  Currently I'm running right around -20, steady needle which is a good thing.

For info on reading vacuum gauges, check out http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/