AM/FM Antenna Upgrade

Now with the more acceptable exhaust note (the twice pipes were too loud!), I can finally enjoy listening to the radio.  I've struggled with what type of antenna to replace the broken original with.  I first tried an 11" rubber ducky that didn't work very well, as well as a hidden antenna that mounted to the window; again not working too well.  I decided it was time to investigate how to repair or replace the old semi-automatic antenna that Datsun included originally.

The great feature of the Datsun antenna is that it is controlled by the radio head unit with a switch, allowing the driver (or passenger) the ability to raise or lower the antenna to the proper level to tune in stations.  (notice the switch on the upper right)

Unfortunately my car arrived with the antenna broken off.  Modern antennas are fully automatic meaning that they go up when powered up and down when the power turns off.  I needed to find a semi-automatic that I could modify to work with the Datsun radio.  Below is the original antenna (left) and the new one I was able to source (right).  Notice the original Datsun antenna had a modulator box already installed that allowed the switch to power one wire for up, the other for down, and use the body of the antenna for a ground; this is how the switch works too.  The modern semi-automatic that I sourced just reverses the polarity to have it go up and down.

I was able to find a diagram of a door lock actuator that would allow me to use the original Datsun radio switch and wiring while making the new antenna work by means of two relays.  Essentially reversing the polarity of the output wires.  Thanks to the original designer of this diagram, it came in very handy!!  Just need to make sure you get 5-pin (5 pole) Bosch style relays.

Below is my work in progress and then the final cleaned up version.  Two inputs, Two Outputs, and a Ground.

 

Mounting the antenna is fairly straightforward.  After mounting the top to the rear quarter panel I hooked up the wiring to make sure everything worked correct, followed by cleanly attaching the relay bracket that I fabricated and then the antenna mounting bar to ensure my quarter panel didn't move any more than it needed to when the antenna was up.

 

The results are great! I can accurately tune into any station in my '72 240z's radio that I can in a modern car with a digital tuner (meaning the antenna performs as good).

Below are links to the parts I used (not including the extra wire, connectors, and brackets I fabricated):

Semi-Automatic Antenna:
http://smile.amazon.com/MQ-1-Semi-Automatic-Power-Antenna/dp/B004675YOK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1432508441&sr=1-1&keywords=Semi+automatic+antenna

Bosch Relays: 
http://smile.amazon.com/Relay-Harness-Bosch-Style-40AMP-HRNS/dp/B005HFYE1O/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1432508382&sr=1-2&keywords=5+Pin+Relay

BRE Rear Spoiler Install

I wanted to change the look of the rear end of the 240z and decided to install a real BRE spoiler from www.BRE2.net.  This is made from the original molds from the 70's and is much better quality than a lot of the replicas that I've seen throughout my travels.  It is a 6-bolt mount (rather than 2 bolt like the cheapo's).

I haven't decided if I'm going to paint it body-color or paint it black...but that will happen once I paint the whole car.

I have never seen any good write ups of how to install one of these spoilers, so I wanted to provide my experience.

First step was to remove the inner hatch panel and remove the "Datsun" and "240z" emblems from the rear deck.  Here's where you can really tell this was a Texas car!  Look at how great the paint looks below the emblems!

 

I then filled in the holes with JB Weld epoxy.  I figure once I repaint the car I will weld the holes shut with real metal, but for now the epoxy would be fine.

Next I decided to make a cardboard template of the spoiler to allow me to identify where the holes should be drilled in the rear deck.  Remember, on this one there are 6 of them that need to be drilled!

 

Then I positioned the template on the rear deck & marked up where the holes needed to be.  I measured many many times to ensure it was correct.  I do know once I finalize the installation, I may need to sand down the fiberglass to get it to line up properly.

 

Then came the most difficult part of center punching the holes & actually drilling out the rear deck.  I did need to make some the holes larger to allow for adjustment.

I did paint the new holes that I drilled to ensure they wouldn't rust.  After a couple test-fittings, I bolted the new BRE spoiler to the rear deck.  There are 2 bolts on either side of the deck (see below) and then two located just above the access holes below.  

 

I've also heard of some guys putting foam on the bottom of the spoiler before it gets bolted on, I may do that to help with the irregularities of the fiberglass and the rear deck.  Overall I'm quite pleased with the outcome.

I did track down the original 70's instructions for how BRE suggests the install...

Success! First Engine Start Up

I was able to start up the 240z with the first crank of the engine following my rebuild.  Had a couple minor things to address, although I was able to take it for a quick drive after I performed the break-in activities.  The vacuum gauge was pointing straight and normal, proving good results.

I now plan on taking several trips, working upto a 50 miler and then once I hit 500 miles on the engine it should be good to go.

Engine Assembly and Installation

After many months of planning, cleaning, and organizing engine parts I finally started the assembly of the engine.  Everything went very smoothly and I replaced all of the parts that needed replacing (oil pump, water pump, thermostat, etc.).  Most concerning part of the assembly was ensuring the mechanical timing was correct (engine at top dead center, camshaft at top dead center, and the distributor shaft positioned correctly).  I could not have successfully done this rebuild without the help of my dad who has always encouraged me to try new things and get my hands dirty.  His years of wisdom and mechanical aptitude came in quite handy.

First the cylinder head went back on. I did use 280zx turbo head bolts which are stronger than the original bolts.

 

Next came the timing chain, front cover, oil pan and clutch

   

After the transmission was mated to the engine, we dropped it into the bay of the car with a little bit of difficulty.  Certainly could have used a longer/taller lift, but we made it work.  I ended up using my garage stool to help balance the transmission while attaching it to the engine.

  

Once the engine was in, the manifolds and other bolt-on parts were installed, including the starter, alternator, and carburetors.  It was much easier to drop the engine into the car without all of this stuff on.

 




I also ended up getting a new MSA manifold-back exhaust system to replace the aging twice pipes that the previous owner installed. As there will be an actual muffler on the exhaust, it should be more drive-able and less annoying to everyone else.  The increased pipe size though should provide for a nice throaty sound.

Next up will be hooking up the electrical connections, coolant hoses, and radiator.  Then the car will be ready for a new set of fluids and attempted start-up.

Miscellaneous Prep Work

While waiting to put the engine back together with my Dad, who I know is excited to help, I decided to tackle some of the minor task.  Firstly, I put the new throw-out (or release) bearing onto the 5speed transmission.  I also switched back over to the correct clutch fork as the new clutch I ordered is the 240z specific one.

 

I then cleaned up the engine bay and painted over the bare metal to prevent rust

 

I also got the new motor mounts installed

Had a little free time on Sunday, which allowed me to continue the small prep work...

Plugging up the old air galley holes in the exhaust manifold and the emissions holes in the carburetor balance tube.

Relocating the relays for the headlights and fuel pump over next to the battery and under the inspection door.  This will keep them out of sight and a little more protected.

And finally, I was able to start organizing the "big" parts in preparation for the engine going back together

Cylinder Head

So its finally time to work on the Cylinder Head.  The main work will be farmed out to a machine shop, but I did start to pull the studs out.  Stay tuned for a set of  "after" pictures.

 








After about a week, I got my cylinder head back from the machine shop.  It looks great and I can't wait to get it back on the car.  Full valve job, machined surfaces, new valve seals, and new intake valve seats (hardened steel).  The guys at Per Race Engines (http://per-race-engines.com) did a great job.