- Alternator Upgrade (using an internally regulated 60amp 280zx)
- Carburetor Float Sight Glass
- Differential Side-Seal Replacement
- Front & Rear Suspension Rebuild
- Electric Fuel Pump Upgrade (eliminate mechanical pump)
- Fuel Tank Vent Hose Replacement
- DIY front alignment
- Throttle Jerk Fix
- Installation of Miata Seats
- Miata Seat Speakers
- BRE Rear Spoiler Installation
- Headlight Relay Wiring Harness
Welcome to my Blog!
Welcome to my Blog devoted to the restoration of my 1972 Datsun 240z. I purchased it in 2013 and have been actively working on my driving-restoration, so I can enjoy the car rather than having it in pieces for years. Please enjoy the write-ups below, as well as the how-to's. Feel free to reach out to me directly if you have any comments or questions. Thanks. - Dave
03 July 2013
240z How-To Links
Below are several of the larger projects that I've completed on my car which I documented as much as possible to allow others to learn from my restoration. The rest of the blog entries track the progress of my restoration.
Alternator Upgrade
So while digging through my box of parts that the previous owner provided me, I ran across a brand new alternator, which ended up being a 280ZX internally regulated 60amp model. After upgrading to the Pertronix electronic ignition last year, I began to hear that the 240z's voltage regulator and 40amp alternator might not be powerful enough, so I investigated upgrading. All it cost me was the price of a diode ($2 @ Radioshack) as I had all of the other parts already.
I was able to find a good article at ZHOME.COM (http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html) but it lacked the detail and pictures that I needed.

After removing the voltage regulator I found out why its recommended to go with an internally regulated alternator -- look at how the backing plate has melted!
Once installed with the waterproof boot that I had laying around (which fit perfectly), I was able to tuck the jumper harness under the wires and it looks like its always been there.
I was able to find a good article at ZHOME.COM (http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html) but it lacked the detail and pictures that I needed.
After removing the voltage regulator I found out why its recommended to go with an internally regulated alternator -- look at how the backing plate has melted!
In order to eliminate the external voltage regulator I needed to create a jumper, including a diode to allow the car to turn off when the key is removed. Here is the best diagram I was able to find on the internet:
I ended up using a spare voltage regulator connector (and kept the somewhat working voltage regulator in one piece in case I ever needed to switch back). This connector then plugs in just like the voltage regulator would.
Once installed with the waterproof boot that I had laying around (which fit perfectly), I was able to tuck the jumper harness under the wires and it looks like its always been there.
Now that I've been driving on the new alternator without the external voltage regulator I can honestly say the car is running better than it probably did when it was new. This was a great upgrade and should be done by anyone having ignition or performance issues (I thought it was my carburetors, but all along it was electrical issues).
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